Friday, January 29, 2010

Where am I?

No pictures to show, not because there were no pictures, but because the pictures that exist are nothing new, and the ones I wanted to take, I could not.
In the last week, I have done my fair share of exploring; I feel that I understand the city somewhat better than before. I've had a few conversations, nothing of note really: pleasantries and salutations. I've stood, twice, completely silent, alone, small, under the frescoes of Tuscan painters: at the Museo di Santa Maria della Scalla and at the Museo Civico. Knowing nothing of art, I can hardly describe what the paintings looked like; what drew me to them; and how they have affected me. Being unable to photograph them, I cannot show you. But I can say that I have a strong desire to understand how it is possible for one person to so perfectly capture a scene, that I feel I could at any moment be absorbed, a part of the landscape. There is no other way I know how to say this. What amazed me most, as I mutely trasfixed my gaze on painting after painting, is the impossible notion that I could create something so beautiful, so perfect, so real. I have always been drawn to those who can do what I cannot, and I am brought... to solemness, by seeing the great works of Sienese artists.
Italian grammar is difficult. I am uncomfortable trying to speak, write, learn the language. The rules change often. A rule that I grasp onto is different when the situation changes. I am not dismayed, but I am disappointed that it does not come more easily. Though I know that it will, I am dismayed yet. My goal at the moment, as I struggle with sounding competent, is to approximate sienese pronunciation. There is a slight, and, I think, beautiful, difference in the spoken language. That makes it flow so much more quickly; completely.
I head off tomorrow, to San Gimignano. I hear it is beautiful, hopefully there will be pictures to follow.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Distendere






To settle. In the sense of overcoming anxiety. This is where I have found myself. This city, these people, have started to make sense for me. Maybe it's having a schedule; to school every morning on the 8:50 or 9:20 bus; or realizing where the bus goes at all (which was an adventure the first few days). I have gone out a few times, but honestly haven't experienced much of the nightlife; just a couple of pubs. Of course, I'm trying not to spend all my money in one place; I'd rather spend it traveling, or even enjoying a dinner I've never had before, as opposed to wasting it on drinks. Though certainly, I won't be avoiding the good times altogether.
The past week has mostly been an exercise in assimilation; not to the culture of Siena, which is beautiful, but mostly inattainable for me, in my short stay. Rather, as the foreign student in Siena, my role is certainly diferent from a tourist, and I'm not Sienese, but I am somewhere in the middle; between a brother and a stranger. More welcome as a guest, but also more responsible to act as a local would, to understand and appreciate customs, not to fit in, but to pay respect to those that deal with my very foreigness, and treat me as one of them.
I walked through the market on wednesday morning, and must admit, that I was somewhat overwhelmed. There was plenty to see and to buy, but it was obvious to me that I didn't truly belong at this fair. On the spectrum I have created, this was a moment in which I was leaning to the side of tourist. I passed jackets and food and intimates and flowers, wide eyed. And also, ignored. Though of course, my intention was only to explore for the day, and among stands that peeked through the soil overnight, growing to full height immediately, imposing from either side of the path, I enjoyed the wonder of this temporary grove. It led me, winding, twisting, to the fortezza, where I stood at the top; reliving the role of an archer. Though my weapon in hand was a camera.



Monday, January 18, 2010

First couple of days


I'm here in Siena. An absolutely majestic city. I know no more than 3 or 4 streets: how to get to school and back, but don't care. The piazza del campo (of which I've yet to take pictures), is superb; I've found myself standing in the center, walking in a circle, to try in take in all there is. It's the site of the palio, a twice annual horse race of immense importance for all in Siena. Walking through the city is an experience unto itself. The walls still stand from medieval (sp?) times, virtually unchanged. Modern shops and bars (an Italian bar serves coffee and sandwiches) fill the void left by time and war and generations past, but the streets remain unchanged; a maze of pathways that appear as carved into formerly, one block of stone.
I'll not tell you that the countryside is entirely alien to those I've seen before. But there is something in the way that rolling hills are met by the vibrant hues of lonely villas and towns built into cliffs. It's hard to describe the exact difference that makes these sights so profound. The lack of a modern roads (not to say there is a lack, as one can get to any place) that in America divide and subdivide every community and city and for that matter the fact that I've yet to even see the highway. Or perhaps that the only chain I've seen, AGIP (a gas station), doesn't crowd every street corner. I've seen two with a considerable distance between them; this is not shell, of which there are often 3-4 within an area of a few miles. There are two McDonalds. The one in the center is closed, maybe forever, cause it doesn't matter to these people to have food this fast. When you order a coffee, you stand at the counter, for as long as you want, and only pay after you are finished. A different mindset altogether.
This stage of an encounter is still infatuation, and I must say that it's hit me hard.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Anticipation






Apparently yesterday I fell into a common tourist trap. A piece of advice, when in rome, do as the romans do, and take only officially licensed taxis. You will know because of their color (white), markings (taxi on the side), and the fact that they will not exit their car to try and solicit your business. Do not take a taxi whose driver has approached you! Mine ended up not even running a meter and trying to charge me for a ride to a location I did not go (a location about 30 minutes away), assuming I wasn't familiar enough with the geography of the city (there were only 5 prices, broadly defined by distance from the city center): of that, he was right. Had it not been for the helpful staff, I would have been in a very tough position.
I have settled some: slept and ate: a wonderful meal of risotto with radicchio in a cream sauce and steamed cauliflower. The hotel offered to pay for my taxi for which I am very grateful; it is truly a lovely hotel, even if I caught it during off season (the hotel and city are evidently intended for a summer stay).
I am ready to tomorrow morning encounter the others from my program, hopefully with no repeat of difficulty. I am set at ease by the help I've recieved at the hotel, but still a bit scared that the problems I first faced are bound to repeat, due to my lack of understanding of local customs, fear of speaking the language aloud, and a general fear of being cut off from everyone else, I'm sure a common experience for one in my position.
I am but a couple of hours from another wonderful dinner, and then a nights rest before heading off with the others. Probably I will be able to update in a couple of days, hopefully with news of relief and delight.
Some pictures:

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

First Day Frustration

It had to happen sometime, but the first cab ride to the hotel?
When exiting the airport there are somewhere around 15 cab drivers standing around at the exit. I was told to only take an official taxi, and this seemed to be official, all standing around with police nearby, surely not a group destined to rip off their customers.
A gentleman inquired if I needed a taxi, and I said yes, so he led me to, seemingly, his taxi, only... after he loaded the bags in the back, another driver took over. I was alarmed, but not yet ready to bail (a mistake). My new driver and I drove about 5 minutes away and picked up my original driver (confused yet? I was). Then we turned around. The hotel was further away than I had thought (though only 6 miles, it appears the way the roads are structured makes it more like 10), however, the driver took a purposefully long route (skipping his exit the first time, taking a later one, and doubling back). I let it go, since he now outnumbered me, and had complete control. We got to the hotel, where he tried to drop me off with a bit of a walk to the door and charged me 180 euro! I insisted that we go inside first ( so that I would have a witness), only, he duped me. We got inside, and he brought my bag, then he complained that I was not willing to pay the full price. I asked the hotel attendant how much she thought it might be for a cab ride from the airport: "40-50 euro", she said. I agreed, and stepped back out to pay the cabbie (who had exited and was still complaining). I told him that 180 euro was an impossible price, and he fooled me into thinking I had misheard him: "it's only 70 euro", he said.
Relieved, I handed over the money, without thinking to do it back inside in front of the attendant. The cabbie, therefore, pocketed the 50 and pulled out a 10. He said "30 is not enough". Completely baffled, I went back inside to check everything (so as to make sure I had not put my 50 euro in some other place). I had not, of course, but the man continued to complain! The attendant could do nothing, because she had not witnessed the transfer. The cabbie then took a 10 euro off of the desk where I had laid it, while putting the other 10 back in his pocket (he has now taken 80 euro from me). Again he shows 30 euro and says it is not enough. I wouldn't care, knowing full well that he has ripped me off, but he takes one of my bags and starts to leave with it! I take it back from him, but am forced to give him another 20 euro to shut him up! He complains on his way out, too, as if I have cheated him. In summation, the prick ended up with 100 euro of my money, considering the exchange rate at the airport, that totaled $190 for a lousy (and extended to make it longer) 20 minute cab ride. I will not be leaving the hotel the next two days and will only take a cab recommended by my hotel. I should not have come early; this was evidently a huge mistake. It will take some time for Siena to make up for this first day problem.

Friday, January 8, 2010

P A C K I N G

How much to bring?
How much to leave?

I have the very stressful feeling that I am certain to forget something. There is no way I will remember to bring everything I need, even if I make a list, and check it twice.
In any case, I depart on Monday (arrive on Tuesday) and will begin my stay. Hopefully with pictures of the sea. It's not so often that one gets to see the ocean when living in Ohio, so I opted for a seaside hotel, despite the weather.

Monday, January 4, 2010

So Much To Do

Get a Physical
Have my classes approved
Pay the first payment for my program
Buy a netbook
Submit all of my paperwork
Pack